Sometimes, you arrive at places so captivating, you can’t help but sit in awe, taking in your surroundings. Fondeadero del Morrón is one of those places. We sailed in with strong winds and heavy waves, but as soon as we rounded the corner to the anchorage, the waves vanished. The landscape was dark red, and it felt as though we had sailed into a desert. There’s something captivating about the colours and scenery here—long red beaches, dark volcanic mountains, and a few scattered green trees.
Espen is testing the wing foil at the anchorage.
This anchorage is right next to the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, Spain's largest protected coastal area and has a unique landscape. The park is located on the southeastern coast of Spain and is the only region in Europe with a hot desert climate. The Sierra del Cabo de Gata, with its volcanic rock formations, sharp peaks, and steep cliffs, defines the area. The highest peak, El Fraile, rises steeply from the Mediterranean, creating jagged cliffs and secluded coves with white-sand beaches.
The geological structure of this region is fascinating. Andalusia is shaped by three main geological units: the Iberian Massif, the Betic Mountains, and the Neogene basin. The Iberian Massif is a large, ancient geological formation that makes up much of the Iberian Peninsula, including parts of Spain and Portugal. It formed during the late Paleozoic Era, around 350 to 280 million years ago. The massif is made up of highly folded and deformed metamorphic (schists, quartzites, and marbles) and igneous rocks (mainly granitoids) from the Precambrian and Paleozoic eras. This massif is essentially the remmnants of a once larger continent, the ancient Iberian continent, that existed before the Atlantic Ocean opened up. The Betic Mountains are a mountain range in southern Spain, stretching along the Mediterranean coast. They are relatively younger than the Iberian Massif, formed during the Cenozoic Era roughly 65 million years ago to the present. This range was created by the collision of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates. The mountains are composed of a mix of limestone, sandstone, and metamorphic rocks and are characterized by their rugged peaks, sharp cliffs, and high biodiversity. And it is so cool we get to see it all from our boat. The Sierra Nevada is part of the Betic Mountains. The Neogene Basin refers to a sedimentary basin filled with deposits from the Neogene Period, which lasted from 23 to 2.6 million years ago. These basins are formed as a result of tectonic activity, erosion, and sedimentation during and after the uplift of mountain ranges like the Betic Mountains. The Neogene basin, located between the Iberian Massif and the Betic Mountains ha as been filled with sedimentary layers such as sandstone, marl, and limestone, which are remnants of ancient rivers, lakes, and even shallow seas that existed during the Neogene.
Despite the headwind and crashing waves, sailing along this dramatic volcanic coastline, the immensity of the landscape around us is overwhelming. The ancient folds and scarred surfaces telling stories millions of years old—stories we will never truly grasp.
Layers of sediment, deposited over millennia. The landscape seems eternal, its volcanic rocks and sedimentary layers indifferent to our fleeting presence. It is humbling how small we are in comparison to these ancient structures that have existed long before us and will continue to exist long after we are gone.
In moment like these, surrounded by the silent majesty of the earth’s deep history, it is impossible to deny our own insignificance in the grand scheme of things. The earth moves to rhythms we can barely comprehend, and in its presence, we are but a grain of sand.
The mix of natural beauty and fascinating geology makes this corner of mainland Spain unforgettable. And sailing along this coast is something we highly recommend.
The hospitality and service we’ve encountered along our journey down the coast have been exceptional. After leaving the stunning anchorage, the conditions seemed fine. But as soon as we rounded the corner, we were met with a grueling 10-hour trip of head-on wind and waves. Emilie made it clear that she had reached her limit, so we decided to stay in Aguadulce for two nights to recover before facing yet another rough leg toward the charming marina in Motril. Here, we agreed to wait for better weather and go with the wind;). Something we would like to do the majority of the time. Below is our route down the coast.
In Motril, we met a Canadian family on a boat named Snowmane, with two boys, aged 11 and 13. They introduced us to pickleball, a fun mix of paddle and tennis. It was great to meet such a lovely family. We also encountered several fellow Norwegians, including one couple who had sailed down from Norway. The woman, in particular, found the experience exhausting and stressful, with fears of orca encounters and to many long days at sea. They decided to delay their Atlantic crossing and opted instead for a leisurely sail through the Mediterranean. We gave them our charts of Croatia and a guidebook for the southern coast of Italy.
We also met a solo sailor who lives aboard his boat in the marina and had just returned from a solo sail to South America, Caribbean and across the Mediterranean. He generously lent us his car, allowing us to visit the Alhambra—absolutely breathtaking—and the Science Museum in Granada.
Photo: fotos-alhambra.jpg
A visit to Alhambra is really a must do experience. The Alhambra, an ancient palace, fortress, and citadel, is situated in Granada, Spain. This site, over eight centuries old, was named for its reddish walls and towers that encircle the citadel—'al-qal’a al-hamra' in Arabic, meaning 'the red fort or castle.' It stands as the sole surviving palatine city from the Islamic Golden Age and is a vestige of the Nasrid Dynasty, the final Islamic kingdom in Western Europe.
The Alhambra’s construction wasn't the work of just one ruler but rather the cumulative efforts of several monarchs of the Nasrid dynasty. It began with Mohammed I, who laid the foundations by fortifying the royal site on the Sabika Hill. He reinforced the fortress by building three new towers: the Broken Tower, the Keep, and the Watch Tower. Mohammed I also managed to canalise water from the Darro River, which allowed for the establishment of a royal residence within the Alcazaba. Additionally, he built warehouses and halls for soldiers and young guards and initiated the construction of the Alhambra’s palaces and ramparts.
His successors, Mohammed II and Mohammed III, continued to develop the Alhambra. Mohammed III is credited with constructing the Grand Mosque of the Alhambra and public baths, vital elements of daily life for the palace’s inhabitants.
The most famous structures of the Alhambra, recognisable today, were largely built during the reigns of Yusuf I and Mohammed V.
The fortress was entirely self-sufficient, and its gardens are a delight to explore. A stunning blend of beauty and practicality, they feature vibrant roses and other ornamental plants alongside herbs, fruits, and vegetables.
We step into the palace, equipped with our AirPods and headsets, as the website guides us through each room, one by one. We're immediately struck by the incredible level of detail in every corner, each space telling a story of its rich history. The Islamic sections of the palace are undoubtedly the most breathtaking, with intricate designs and craftsmanship. However, the shift to the Catholic influence is easily noticeable, marked by the characteristic contrast of whitewashed walls and dark wood accents. This place is unlike any other.
In 1492, the Catholic Monarchs, King Ferdinand of Aragon and Queen Isabella of Castile, conquered Granada, bringing an end to centuries of Islamic rule. The last Nasrid ruler, Muhammad XII was exiled, marking a turning point in the Alhambra’s history.
After the conquest, the Alhambra was significantly altered. Charles V, who ruled Spain as Charles I, ordered the demolition of parts of the complex to construct a Renaissance-style palace for himself, now known as the Charles V Palace. He also commissioned the construction of other structures, including the Emperor’s Chambers, the Queen’s Dressing Room, and a church to replace the mosque.
By the 18th century, the Alhambra was largely abandoned. In 1812, during the Peninsular War, some of its towers were blown up by the French forces, contributing to its decline.
The Alhambra eventually underwent a series of renovations aimed at preserving its architectural and cultural significance.
Nasrid palace and generallife garden Alhambra.
That evening, we had booked tickets for a flamenco show. At first, we were sceptical, as the only audience was our family and a group of 10 Spaniards, but it turned out to be an incredibly intimate performance. On the way back, the kids were thrilled, saying they wished for more experiences like this.
One of the joys of this journey is meeting other sailors and hearing their stories. The solo sailor shared a gripping tale of his voyage from the Caribbean to the Azores. He had recently installed a hose system for cleaning his anchor chain after numerous muddy anchorages in the Caribbean. A few days into the rough passage, with waves crashing over the bow, he noticed water pooling on the cabin floor—so much so that it was seeping into the cushions in the bow cabin. He calmly prepared the life raft and grab bag, thinking, “My home is sinking.” But instead of giving up, he started bailing water out with a bucket, and after hours of effort, he managed to get enough out to save the boat. Investigating the cause, he discovered that the person who had kindly installed the hose system had also drilled a hole from the anchor locker into the cabin, allowing the boat to flood. Luckily, he managed to save his home from disaster.
I’m thankful that, so far, we haven’t had any such extreme experiences, and I hope it stays that way.
He gave us a great tip: head to the tiny, hidden restaurant under the bridge for an authentic local experience. He emphasised staying for a while to really soak in the atmosphere. When we arrived, it was clear this was a true local spot—no one spoke English, so we made do with our limited Spanish. We ordered the catch of the day, freshly caught by the boat anchored just outside the restaurant. From our seat, we could even see the bustling fish market through the window behind us. The meal was rustic, eaten with our hands—sardines, shrimp, calamari, and an unidentified small fish, all incredibly fresh and flavourful.
Waiting for the weather gives us time to fix things. Like a leak in the dingy, splicing rope, and a bit of polishing.
Finally, the wind turned in our favour as we headed, together with Snowmane, towards the Strait of Gibraltar. Zigzagging between large ships, with dolphins illuminated by phosphorescence during the night, and even a glimpse of a turtle, we marked the end of our Mediterranean adventure—almost exactly two months after we left from Rimini to Pula.
It's strange to think that the first leg of our journey is now complete. But what an extraordinary adventure it has been. Now, there's plenty of work to do on the boat before we can set sail for the Canary Islands. Anicke
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