Cape Verde 16-22. November 2024 – The pleasure and importance of the ARC+ community
- anickebrandt-kjels
- Mar 13
- 10 min read
Landfall
Early in the morning on November 16th, as the sun began to rise, we caught our first glimpse of the Cape Verde Islands—also known as Cabo Verde discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th century. The Portuguese made the islands a part of their broader colonial system, using Cape Verde as a strategic location for trade, resupply, and slave trade.
Rugged, light-gray peaks emerged sharply from the sea, the mountains of the volcanic islands offering a sense of homecoming after the vastness of the open ocean. Cape Verde is made up of ten islands and we are entering Port Mindelo on the island Sao Vincente, located between Santo Antao and Santa Luzia. Our first leg of crossing the Atlantic Ocean is done. Being close to shore gives us a wave of relief and quiet joy—everything has gone alright.
Espen steers Yggdrasil through a maze of yellow buoys and docks at our designated berth. A berth that turned out to be the liveliest we've ever experienced. Just 50 meters ahead lies the floating bar urging us to come celebrate. There's only one path leading to the bar and that path goes right past our boat. Everyone going to and from the bar has to pas us and more often than not, they stop and chat. From the bar loud music and laughter fills the air. Few minutes later we are celebrating with refreshing mojitos in hand. We hadn’t expected how deeply we would come to cherish the connections formed with friends sharing the experience of the ARC+ rally. The true value of this community, its shared laughter, stories, and unwavering support, is only now beginning to settle in.
As we were catching up with the crew from different boats. Carl Herman, a charming young Norwegian with blonde hair and an irresistible smile, walked by with his friends. It was a pleasure to see them again, and as we exchanged greetings, I noticed a small burn on Calle’s shin. Turns out he got burned by one of the sheets after an involuntary jibe. I asked him if he’d cleaned it and applied any disinfectant. He admitted he hadn’t, so we invited him aboard, handed him a cold beer, and I set to work cleaning the wound. As I tried to apply a bandage, I glanced down at his hairy legs (which, honestly, could rival Espen's), and realised that sticking the bandage properly would be impossible. So, I improvised, taping everything in place with plaster tape. Calle, being a marine officer and experienced navigator, I am sure he knew how to treat it himself, but it felt good to be able to help, and he seemed grateful. Over the next few days, he showered me with attention, which was a rare treat these days, and I must admit, I appreciated it. (Not saying that Espen is not good at giving me attention - Espen forced me to write this).
Carl Herman and Helene on Yggdrasil in Mindelo
"Born to Run" sailed much faster than us, and by the time we arrived, they had already explored much of the city. Helene, Calle’s lovely wife, recommended a cosy spot for dinner. They were planning to head back to the same place later that evening, and we decided to follow their lead. We asked the boat Asja to join us, and Emilie was thrilled to be back with her German friends.
Mindelo is a city steeped in deep musical roots, particularly in genres like morna (the melancholic, soulful music of Cape Verde), coladeira, and jazz. It’s the birthplace of Cesária Évora, one of Cape Verde’s most iconic musicians, and her legacy echoes through the streets, bars, and music venues. As we wander through the lively streets, the sound of jazz fills the air, drawing us into the heart of the city’s vibrant music scene. The cobbled streets are lined with charming colonial-era buildings, their colorful facades a welcome contrast to the white and gray we’re used to back home. Each house tells its own story, with ironwork balconies and pastel hues that reveal the town’s European influence.
As we rounded a corner the inviting glow of “Le Metalo” jazz restaurant catch our eye. The doors are wide open and music is filling the air with rhythm. We were so happy to be there. At the same time the exhaustion from the crossing is starting to catch up with us.
Daniel, the father on the German boat Asja, is talking, but my tired eyes hardly stay open. My body telling me I was beyond tired. The lack of sleep from the crossing is catching up with me in a way I hadn’t anticipated. What did he say? I struggled to focus on his words, feeling embarrassed as I realise I can`t follow the conversation. Looking down at the end of the table, I see my brother already asleep at the table, Maren wakes him and follows him back to the boat. Not long after the rest of us make our way back to the boat too.
For the young crew of Born to Run, the night had only just begun. Calle, tipsy and joyful, checked in on all of us several times that night, kissed us goodnight, and returned to enjoy the music, leaving us to rest.
With only few days in Mindelo we dive into boat work again preparing for the next leg. The salt buildup on winches is massive. In the background the air is filled with the hum of activity and the laughter of people enjoying the moment and working on their boats. The ARC+ office has arranged a small but pleasant parade that takes over the dock, bringing together the community and visitors in a swirl of music and dance. Two female dancers’ twirls by catching the last sunlight. The costumes shimmer in brilliant hues of violet and green, the colourful feathers and tongs create a vibrant contrast against the dark skin of the dancers. They move with grace and sensuality, each step executed with precision and confidence. The women’s well-toned figures are athletic, bold, and full of life. Among them is a man in a golden dress, his presence commanding attention. The gold fabric glimmers as he dances to the rhythm of the music. His dark skin, sharp features, and expressive brown eyes add to the magnetism he exudes, as he moves through the crowd with effortless style.
Local musicians play rhythms pulsing through the air. Their instruments, a mix of drums, tambourines, and maracas, create an infectious beat that has everyone moving.
The first rum punches and canapés are served, but the food had been sitting out under the burning sun for hours before the festivities began. It wasn’t long before Kristian, Christoffer and Fredrik started to feel the effects, their stomachs unsettled by the heat-soaked snacks.
Diving
One of the things we have been looking forward doing is diving and snorkelling, so
we booked a diving trip with Haliotis Sao Vicente. Emilie and Christoffer haven’t dived since obtaining their open water certificates in Norway and are excited to get back in the water. The waters surrounding Cape Verde are cool and full of life, creating the perfect setting for exploration. Espen, Fredrik, Maren, and Kristian are all geared up for freediving.
The two dive spots located just around the corner from the port are teeming with life. The coral reefs are in excellent health, with colourful, thriving corals that support a rich variety of marine species. We were surrounded by a dazzling array of fish, including parrotfish, damselfish, and wrasse, weaving through the coral in a brilliant display of colour.
Cape Verde’s waters are home to over 400 species of fish, many of which are endemic to the region, making it a truly diverse and exciting destination for divers.
After the first dive, Emilie was feeling quite cold. Despite thoroughly enjoying the experience she is hesitant about going back in. After a while the divemaster manage to convince her to join us for the second dive. The dive started off just as beautiful as the first, but after a while both Christoffer and Emilie signals to the divemaster that they are running low on air. Despite Christoffer being below 50 bar, the divemaster continued, and eventually, Christoffer ran out of air. He had to rely on either me or the divemaster to breathe. Then, just as we were preparing for our safety stop, Emilie ran out of air as well. We never went deeper than 18 meters, so it was fairly safe. But in our opinion, as a divemaster you should never let other divers run out of air, skilled or not!
Once we surfaced, everyone remained calm, but Espen and I were far from pleased with the organisers. A British woman being a beginner just like Emilie and Christoffer surfaced with only 20 bar left. While we would love to dive here again, we would prefer to do so on our own terms, with more control over our own safety and diving plans.
Santo Antão – The greenest island of Cape Verde
We wake early to make the short walk from our boat to the ferry terminal in Mindelo, excited for our trip to the neighbouring island of Santo Antão.
After boarding our designated white minibus, we begin our tour, and the scenery is nothing short of spectacular. Unlike the dry, barren landscapes of São Vicente, Santo Antão is fertile and green. The valleys are rich with banana trees, sugarcane fields, and coffee plantations.
Due to the island’s diverse topography, we experience several microclimates on our journey.
We stop for short walks to a light house and small towns, before we start the drive along the Estrada a Corda. We are driving on cobblestone roads that were originally built by enslaved Africans or their descendants, who were forced to work under harsh conditions. These roads were important for connecting the island’s remote areas to the port towns and facilitating the movement of goods, including agricultural products from the island’s plantations. The use of cobblestones was typical in Cape Verde, as it was a practical and durable method for dealing with the island's rough terrain and changing weather conditions.
After slavery was abolished in 1876, the newly freed population continued to maintain and develop these roads.
These cobblestone roads are not just a part of Santo Antão's physical landscape but also a reflection of the island’s history of exploitation, resistance, and resilience.
Beginning in Porto Novo the road is winding its way over slopes and ancient lava hills as we drive along the coast.
The higher we climb, the more the landscape transforms, becoming increasingly lush and green. At one point, we find ourselves driving along the edge of the old volcanic crater at Cova de Paul, offering stunning views of the surrounding valleys.
Continuing a few kilometers further, we pass through the mountain village of Corda. The road then takes us higher, reaching an altitude of about 1,000 meters, where we ride along a narrow mountain ridge. From here, the view is truly breathtaking, with dramatic landscapes stretching out on both sides. The road is incredibly narrow, only a few meters wide, with steep precipices plunging down on either side, making for an exhilarating drive.
Kristian sits in the back, visibly tense. He has a fear of heights, and with every turn, he lets out deep sighs, carefully controlling his breathing to keep his nerves in check. To be honest, we’re not making it any easier for him, with comments about how quickly we might roll down the steep cliffs and other jokes that only add to the tension. He lets out a huge sigh of relief when we finally reach the end of the narrow, cobblestone road, his anxiety easing as the path widens and the steep drops vanish from view.
Along the way, we make a stop at a small, local distillery tucked into the hills. Here, we get a taste of the island’s unique craft spirits, made from the sugarcane grown in the valley. The distillery offers a warm, welcoming atmosphere, and it’s fascinating to see how they produce their traditional beverages using methods passed down through generations. The boys enjoy the taste, I honesty did not like it.
One regret from this incredible tour is that we did not take the opportunity to explore some of the island's renowned hiking trails, which are said to be truly amazing.
Price giving
The ARC+ rally is divided into different classes and Yggdrasil got 3. place in multihull class B.
Last days on the dock
We spend a lot of time at the floating dock bar when we're not hosting visitors on the boat. We feel lucky to meet so many great people.
One day, one of the kids wasn’t aware that our toilet outlet was full, which led to a bit of an unfortunate incident. As they used the toilet for peeing, following the port rule of no paper, they unknowingly caused a spray from the air outlet, right onto the pier where people were walking. While they were pumping in water, a few unsuspecting passersby got hit with a nice spray—and they didn’t hesitate to yell back to us! We still learn new things about the boat.
Nina and I went to the market for a quick grocery run, only to realise we were being overcharged. However, it didn't bother us too much. Cape Verde is a developing country, and the locals need income to get by.
Walking to and from the market is a unique experience. As we stroll, we pass fishermen preparing the catch from that morning, and women selling their fresh produce in small, handwoven baskets.
I’m trying my best to stick to my commitment of buying locally produced goods, but if I thought it was difficult in Las Palmas, this is a whole different level. Without much variety, we would have survived on little more than yams and cabbage. That said, we’re starting to warm up to cabbage, and even the coleslaw is growing on us.
On the north side of São Vicente, there’s a beautiful, deserted beach where Fredrik, Calle, Espen, and Maren went kiting. It would have been an amazing spot to practice for a few days, but with a rally to attend and it being our last day in Cape Verde, they couldn’t stay longer.
Living together for weeks in a confined space with loved ones can be challenging enough. But living with people you don’t know well, especially when chemistry isn’t quite right, takes things to a whole new level. I’m feeling a mix of doubt and frustration. So, when the others head out for kiting, Nina on the boat Myrto seizes the opportunity. As I’m walking back from the toilets on land, she grabs me and says, "We're going for mojitos!" And, as it goes with mojitos, a few rounds are soon downed. These conversations are so crucial to stay sane!
At some point, Nina becomes the voice of reason and messages both our crew and theirs to let them know where we are.
Espen and I briefly debated whether we should ask one of our crew to fly home from Cape Verde, but in the end, we decided that more crew would feel safer. In hindsight, we probably should’ve trusted our gut instinct for the sake of everyone.
Finally we settle in for the night. Tomorrow the rally is off again taking on the longest passage over the Atlantic.
Once more we come to the conclusion that we would have loved to stay much longer and explored the different islands of Cape Verde, but we are so grateful for what we did see.
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